FreddietheWire  	  Apr 11 2000, 3:00 am     show options
Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing
From: FreddietheW...@webtv.net - Find messages by this author
Date: 2000/04/11
Subject: MORE TRICKS OF THE TRADE(by freddie the wire)
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Surprise--surprise!!!!
I didn't get but only one flame for posting the ins and outs of lock and
safe bypassing--gee I wonder why--maybe because I told all these secret
Squirrels that it just doesn't bother me--actually it makes me laugh!!
ok well here are a few more tricks of this trade for you guys that want
em---
ok here's a trick for opening certain types of "SUPRA" key boxes--for
those of you that don't know what a supra key box is they are the boxes
on the outside of buildings and they contain either a master key or a
sub-master key for that building--they are there for the fire dept so
they can use them in case of fires--anyhow--the supra boxes that have
the push buttons and a reset button that is narrower then the "OPEN"
button can be opened simply by 1st pressing clear,then press the #1
button now press and hold the open button then press clear--the button
will either stay down and not move or it will make a clicking sound and
pop back up--repeat this procedure for all of the buttons--keep track of
the buttons that click and pop up for those buttons are the numbers in
the opening code---now all you have to do is enter those buttons in the
right order and bingo you have a access to the master key for that
building!!!--LOL--that should make a few of these so-called lock pros a
little pissed off--lol---but like I said before--I'm not a
Locksmith--but I will lay dollars to doughnuts that I know more about
the business then they do!!
ok--now for a quicker easier way to open sentry safes--not the
electronic ones just the ones that have dials---take your battery
powered drill--these safes don't have hard plate--or even mild
plate--lol--its basically tin over fire proofing material!--ok- so now
chuck in a hole saw between one and a half to 2 and an eighth inch
bi-metal hole saw--mark a point exactly half way between the dial center
and the handle center--drill in there--remember these safes drill very
fast and easy--be careful not to drill thru the bolt--all you want to do
is drill deep enough to penetrate the inside cavity--as soon as your
hole saw beaks thru stop drilling--now just grab a flat headed punch and
while angling it towards the dial pack strike the bolt a few times and
this will force the bolt up and over the wheel pack now all you do open
the door---
ok how about gm ignitions--I have already explained in an earlier post
how to open gm cars--so here's a quick way to start them---now ever
since 1978 gm has used a hardened steel pin that screws thru the
ignition cylinder making it impossible to pull there six pin ignition
using a dent puller--and most people will tell you that you have to tear
down the column to remove these ignitions--well that's true--if you want
to remove the ignition--but you can bypass this method and start these
ignitions fairly easy---now remember gm ignition locks use a side bar so
it is useless to try and pick these locks--unless you can put pressure
on the side bar--and that is what my tip teaches you--first break off
the ignition cap--or the "ears" as many people call it--now--if you look
at the face of the cylinder you will see a circular indent that goes
around the entire cylinder about 3/8 of an inch from the keyway--this is
where you are going to drill--right in the indent--draw an imaginary
line from the center of the keyway to this indent towards you--now take
a 1/8 inch high speed drill bit and drill thru this face plate--you will
drill thru it very easy once through remove the bit--you now have access
to the side bar --now take a paper clip--or similar piece of wire--bevel
one end--then with a pick or similar item "rake" the tumblers(the
tumblers are on the bottom of the lock in this type of cylinder) while
at the same time applying pressure to the side bar with the clip--keep
pushing in on the clip and raking the tumblers until all 6 tumblers are
picked(these types of ignitions pick very very easily when you can apply
pressure to the side bar!)--now while still holding pressure on the side
bar take a flat head screw driver and turn the ignition towards the on
position--because you still have the clip on the side bar you will only
be able to turn the lock a little bit but it is far enough to hold the
side bar in place so you can remove the clip--now with turning pressure
held on the screw driver remove the clip and continue turning the
ignition to the start position--and presto--the car is running--I know
this sounds like a long drawn out method--but after a few tries and some
practice you will be able to start a GM with this type lock in less than
a minute and a half!
how about one more safe tip before I go off to bed---you ever see a
meilink fire safe??--not the old cast iron safes or the round pull out
doors like the gas stations use--I'm talking about the stand up--counter
high meilink fire safes--they have a black plastic handle that runs
horizontal on the safe when in the locked position--unlike the usual up
and down position of the handle---and most of them carry the name
meilink right above the handle---these safes are almost as easy to open
without the combination then with--LOL--ok first make sure it is the
meilink fire safe and not the old cast iron fire safe---then measure
exactly 2 and a half inches left of dial center and 5/8 of and inch down
from there---drill a 1/4 to 3/8 inch hole into the door cavity--this
safe will drill faster than you might think---mostly fire
insulation---no hardplate where you are drilling--they put hard plate
under the lock--but your not drilling for the lock--LOL--now when you
break thru you should be right on top of the handle cam-- take a flat
headed punch and give the handle cam a few good blows with a good hammer
and punch---this will bend the handle cam out enough to "bypass " the
locking bolt of the safe lock and bingo--the safe is open!--be sure to
keep checking the handle with turning pressure--you don't want to bend
the cam too much--if you have another guy with you have him put moderate
pressure on the handle while you are slamming the cam---remember--I said
moderate--too much pressure on this type of safe handle will cause it to
break--then your screwed! so just keep it easy---if you cant open this
safe this way in less than 5 minutes then you shouldn't be doing it---a
total amateur can use this technique and open it in 4 minutes--good luck
and remember locksmiths---let me hear those flames--your really
disappointing me--only one guy flamed me before--lets go boys---let the
flames begin--LMFAO
ohh--and as far as the guy that said he posted the "government sealed
schlage" as a joke---pal--I just re-read the original post--you did not
add the ocean front property bit until after you were made a fool
of--then you wrote another post with the arizona ocean front
property--so either you didn't want that guy to do it himself--why I
don't now--I mean it is after all his lock--not yours so he has a right
to fix it himself without calling a locksmith out and getting reamed by
the high prices you guys charge---or you just didn't know what the hell
you were talking about and then tried to cover it up by posting the
other crap about it being a joke---if it was a joke then someone has to
lend you a sense of humor--because pal--you ain't funny!!
well that's all today---c-ya all tomorrow---ciao belle
freddie the wire!!