OPENING A HIGH SECURITY JEWELERS SAFE!!!(by freddie the wire--LOL)
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FreddietheWire 	  Apr 17 2000, 12:00 am     show options
Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing
From: FreddietheW...@webtv.net - Find messages by this author
Date: 2000/04/17
Subject: OPENING A HIGH SECURITY JEWELERS SAFE!!!(by freddie the wire--LOL)
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while out in my workshop today I remembered a "job" I did--well, about 6
or 7 years ago---the safe in question is referred to as a "giant" and it

is pretty friggen big!!!--I don't know if they call it a giant for that

reason or not but this thing was huge!! and had to weigh over 3 thousand

pounds easy!!--I call it a jewelers safe because --well--thats where it

was--in a jewelry store---LOL!--I remembered this safe most likely

because while I was screwing around out in my work shop today I was
trying to think of a really well made safe or vault that I have worked
on that old billy boy could not accuse me of "stealing" the technique
out of my fathers old HPC safe and vault manual--then it hit me---I
think I remembered this safe in particular not only because it was a
pain in the ass to open--but also because it took me nearly 2 months to
"track" down the necessary info on cracking this bad boy---several of
the old guys would tell me not to bother cause its a real "bugger" to

deal with--some even said it was impossible---LOL--I love it when I get

a challenge--LOL---so after almost 2 full months of tiresome leg work--I

finally found out the info I needed--first off lets start here--its a
TL-30--which means supposedly it will stand up to a 30 minute attack on
it by tools and someone knowing somewhat how to open it---also--it has a
stainless steel outer skin--if you have ever dealt with stainless

steel--then you know--its a real pain in the ass!!--it also sported 2

locks one dial--and one electronic lock---the dial lock was a lagard
3300 series model and the electronic lock was a lagard model 3600, and
come to find out the electronic lock was mounted on a "bridge" over a
glass panel!!--drill this lock and you "shatter" the glass setting off

the relockers!!!--now from the info I found out---side drilling and

"punching" the lock bolt was not a very good idea as they had installed
what are called "deflector" plates in this safe--which are angled pieces
of steel welded into place so it makes it really tough to try and get a

"bite" into them due to their angle!!---and top drilling it would have

been ridiculous because I would have needed several 2 and a half to 3

foot drill bits!!!---LMAO---so I only had one option--drill thru the

front like a man!---LOL---but drilling thru the front had its down

points also---this safe uses the dreaded lagard ball bearing

hardplate!!!---I hate this crap--and it wasn't the little ball bearing

hard plate where you could just use a "tube" and continue drilling thru
it no problem--or even use the old magnet trick by drawing the balls out
with a magnet-(gee I wonder how I know this trick??--it must've been in
my late dads, very old safe and vault manuals like billy boy

says--LMAO--billy boy is a clown!!--this type of hard plate idea was not

used in 1948--Hell I don't even think the Lagard company existed before

the printing of the HPC safe manual!!!--LMFAO)---no!!--this was the

"LARGE" ball bearing hard plate--professional safe technicians and "safe
crackers" alike hate this stuff!!--because you can drill all day long
and do nothing but dull your drill bits!!--and the balls will hardly
show a scratch--so before going in I had to develop a way around this
stuff---I managed to get a drawing of the large ball bearing hard
late---LOL--a handshake with a c-note goes farther than an empty

handshake and a smile!---LMFAO---and while studying all of my info--it

hit me like a ton of bricks---why not just drill "between" the ball
bearings??--see these ball bearings are not like the little ones--free
rolling all over the place they are kept in place by small round

"pockets" --so they will not roll all around the "plate"!!!---so I found

my photo copy of the safe lock--and placed the drawing of the "ball"
bearing hard plate over it--and sure as hell--I could drill for the lock
thru the damn ball bearings---LOL---only problem was is I had no way of
knowing whether these ball bearing plates were all consistent--or if the

little pockets where randomly drilled--and 1-800-lagard--LMAO--isn't

going to divulge that info---LOL--so I just had to play my hunch that
they would indeed be all the same--after all--I would tend to believe
that these plates are mass produced--and it would cost the company a
fortune to make all of the plates different--so out I go with all my
info in hand---so anyhow after "pulling" the dial off and marking my
drill point--measuring out from the center of the dial thru the number
73 and a half---this lock is mounted in what is referred to as the
"vertical" down position--(the half is because that is where the ball
bearings don't cover!!and yes billy boy and the rest of you--I know the
drop in point for this lock is at 72--but there is a ball bearing

sitting in the way there!!!LOL)--so thru the number 73 and a half by 7/8

of an inch---I chuck up a 5/16 high speed drill bit--and because we have
pulled the dial and removed the spy proof dial ring we don't have to
deal with the stainless steel--LOL--I just love it when a plan comes
together-(there is a "circle" under the dial ring that is pre-drilled by

the manufacturer-)---LMFAO----I drill a hole thru the door steel--then I

hit the "concrete" material inside--so I chuck up a good carbide bit
and adjusted my drill to the hammer drill position--and while using my
"lever" and chain idea continued on thru the door---the "concrete"
material was almost 3 inches deep!! When I "feel" that I am thru the
concrete material I stop the drill and look into the hole--I then change
the drill back to the standard drilling position and continue to drill
into the hardplate housing--I can tell I have broken thru the housing
and am into it because I can feel the ball bearings chattering around at

the end of the drill bit!---I remove the bit--look into the hole and my

hunch was correct!!--I was smack damn in the middle of the ball
bearings--LOL--I had successfully drilled in "between" the ball

bearings!!!--LOL--so now I chucked up a good 3/16 high speed bit and

continue drilling in "between" the balls and thru the rest of the

housing and into the lock case!!!--no problem at all---LMFAO----I line

up the gates with the fence and boom--lock # 1 is defeated!!--Now you

will have to tune in tomorrow night to catch the conclusion of this
little "caper" as "defeating" the lagard electronic lock is really a
neat trick--and not to hard to do--but it takes a while to explain the

procedure and this post is running awful long as it is!!---LOL--

so tune in tomorrow night for part 2 of this caper!!!--same bat

time--same bat NG---LOL

Freddie the Wire

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FreddietheWire 	  Apr 18 2000, 12:00 am     show options
Newsgroups: alt.locksmithing
From: FreddietheW...@webtv.net - Find messages by this author
Date: 2000/04/18
Subject: Re: OPENING A HIGH SECURITY JEWELERS SAFE!!!(by freddie the wire--LOL)
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Part two---defeating the electronic lock!!!!

O.K. we have already defeated the "dial" lock and now we have to beat up

the electronic           lock---there are several----and I mean

"several" ways to defeat the lagard swingbolt--and none of them are hard
at all--I mean to call this thing a safe lock is like calling the Apollo

7 a space shuttle---not even close!!!--LOL

O.K.--first thing I always do when confronted with a electronic lock
like this--is try out the "factory" combination--hell who knows--maybe
some incompetent 'smith didn't know how to change the combo--or maybe
the owner changed it himself--back to the original--so I press the

factory combo-which is--1-2-3-4-5-6--if it opens--i have a coke and a

smile--if not--no big deal--I just remove the keypad from the door--turn

it over--there are some "clips" that hold the plastic front cover
on---push em out and remove the plastic cover--now remove the "rubber"
number pad---when this is removed you will be staring straight at the
circuit board--or "logic" board of the key pad---now at the top of the
circuit board you will see 8 tiny little "posts"---four on top of
four---these eight posts are the "key" to "spiking" this lock open---now
you grab your little spike tool---every safecracker should have one of
these always with him---it is nothing more than a regular--fully charged
9 volt battery connected to the "snap on" wire connectors---you can buy
these connectors at any hobby store for about a quarter

each---LOL---now you take your little spiking tool--and hold one of the

wire ends (it does not matter whether its the positive or the negative
wire-)hold one end to the first post---meaning the one that is on the
top row and farthest to the left as looking at it---now take the other
wire and hold it to the number four post--the last little "post" in the
top row---and BADA-BING--the 9 volt battery delivers a "jolt" directly
to the solenoid causing it to "jump" back ---allowing you to throw the
handle of the safe---its allot easier if you have someone else with you
to throw the handle while you keep the contacts on the little "posts"
but you can do it fine without help--hell I did--LOL--and just look
around--or ask anyone in here--I am a total idiot and moron
so if I can do it by myself--I am confident you will be able

to!!!!!!!---LMFAO-!!!!!!

now like I said in part one of this little caper--I did this job several
years ago--and this particular safe and its locks were manufactured
before 1990---however---all of the lagard swingbolts of this kind that I
have come in contact with that have been manufactured after the very
early 1990's are a little bit more difficult to open---not much more
difficult---but it will take you approx 2 or 3 more minutes to open

them---LOL--see--the technicians at Lagard got sick and tired of

everyone with a nine volt battery being able to just walk up and "spike"
open their locks---so they started to get a little tricky in the early

90's and made this swingbolt much more "spike"-resistant!!--but they are

in no way impossible to open--actually they are almost as easy---I will
discuss that little trick on another post--after all---like the CLOWNS
on this NG have been saying the last couple of days---I am bound to run
out of tips--then what???---so I plan on posting them sparingly from now

on---LMFAO--but don't worry fans--I have had hands on contact with

several---and I do mean several---(-for old billy boy and his posse of

ignorant clowns--several means allot--LMFAO---more than you can count

with your fingers,toes and pecker---LMFAO---assuming they can count and

have peckers--LOL--otherwise old triple anus--little wee -wee JP--rico

the moron and donny the cartoon character will have to only count to 20

and then start over---LMFAO!!!!!)

so anyhow---have you guys been reading the flames at me

lately??--LMFAO--these guys kill me---hell one of these morons actually

had the little bee-bee's to flame me for posting what I did about donny
boy and the school yard stuff--but if this ignoramus had actually used
his head for something other than a landing strip for flies --LOL--he
would have realized that his buddy--(or his alter ego--LOL--) donny boy
was the one that started the whole thing off calling me a child
molester--and a pervert--and that now I have things to do so the school
kids are safe from my attacks---can you believe that friggen
moron???---he cant shoot down my techniques --so he calls me a child

molester---LMAO---then I retaliate---let me say that louder for little

tiny JP---I RETALIATE--to his comments by asking him what his
fascination with school kids is--and maybe he should get his pea brain
shrinked before some little kids get hurt----and J-(unior) P-(enis) has
the gull to flame me for it????--is this guy for real??--or is he just a
comic book character???--LOL--yet not once does he reprimand old donny
boy for bringing it up---either donny boy is juniors alter ego---or he's
like the rest of the total jerk offs that flame me because I am not part
of their brotherhood of secret squirrels and I don't know the secret
handshake so I must be the BAD guy???---Hell I can take a beaten as well
as the next guy--and I can certainly hold my own in a "flaming"
war---but have these guys ever heard about fair play??--how about common

sense??--LOL---of course not--hell--look who I'm talking about---I have

never flamed or cracked on anyone until they did it to me first--(well

--except that ONE cop--but he had it coming--LOL)--but I have never

flamed these guys until they did me--then all of a sudden --because I
don't wear the secret decoder ring of the supreme locksmiths--I am the

bad guy---they flame me for flaming them--or saying something--but don't

even bother to know or understand why I am flaming the guy--hell---even

I--as a total moron--and a fraud-(as they say it!)--at least I READ and

understand the posts before I flame back at a guy---LOL---but these guys
have been standing too close to the cleaning solution again---LOL--and
they don't have enough brain power to realize what is really going

on--they just jump at the first guy that they don't know----LOL---like I

have said from the beginning--they are all second and third rate

clowns!!!!

well gotta post my results from the simplex lock that old donny boy
wanted---I will be back on tomorrow with the trick to bypassing the

newer lagard swingbolts!!!---LOL

Freddie the Wire